Salve, Torino

Our visit to Torino (Turin, to us Inglese folks) was well worth the decision to add it to our itinerary. Although my only real bucket list item for Torino was to see the shroud, we arrived to a number of great surprises! First off, we learned that this year (for the first time since 2010) the real shroud (not the copy that is usually on display) was here for presentation. Second, we discovered that this week is the start of the Torino Jazz festival, with some notable artists including the opening show from Tony Braxton. And finally, we found out that Davinci's "self-portrait" was also on display in the Savoy  castle in the Piazza Castello, the most important castle courtyard in Torino.

To ensure we got a great start, we didn't even check in to our BnB/appartemento when we arrived, opting to check our luggage at a KI-point (a luggage check service at the station) and went directly up to Piazza Castello to reserve our trip to see the shroud. We were given an appointment at 10am the next morning - perfect to allow us to have a decent breakfast before leaving the apartment. Then we had a number of happy adventures (you newfy people will appreciate that) which included the viewing of Il Volto (perhaps the most famous image of Davinci - see the attached picture). While we were at that show, we discovered the rest of the building (Castello Madama) was filled with amazing antiquities, beautiful woodwork, and paintings - and more importantly had a beautiful castle tower that provided an impressive panorama of Torino, and the most beautiful moat level garden (the Prince's garden) that was a joy to wander around in. 

We decided last night to take in an authentic Italian dinner (several servings starting with antipasta and pane (bread with oil and balsamic vinegar), then a prima - risotto and agnotelli, an entree (roast kid for me, the goat, not the bambina, and chicken a la baby for Elisabetta...seeing a patten here?), and then passing  the dolce (sweets), we were forced to try some grappa and wine liqueur with fresh cherries and chocolate biscotti. We rolled out the door, and waddled back to the apartment where we were able to do nothing more than  watch Italian dubbed movies like Backdraft. BTW - Kurt Russell really sounds very funny speaking in Italiano.

The shroud (La Sindone) was truly amazing. Arriving at the park outside the cathedral 15 minutes  before our appointment, we were marched through a series of stop points including a full security check (note, don't bring your favorite pocketknife) and also including a brief video overview that was very helpful in preparing to understand the significance of the various marks on the shroud...and which also clears up why they are so sure this really is the shroud used to wrap Christ's remains before he was entombed. After a brief  wait for the previous group to clear, our group (of about 30 or so) were marched up to an altar where we saw, what I had assumed was a video display of the shroud, but when the docent began his discussion it was soon clear that we were only a few feet from the real shroud hermetically sealed in a display case and backlit so that you can clearly see all the markings preserved in the shroud. I was not as prepared as I thought I would have been for the emotional impact. Knowing you are just beyond arms length of the shroud that is stained with the blood of Jesus (regardless of your religious discipline) is truly an emotional moment. I was very moved, although surprised that the Lord was not all that tall!

That's a hard act to follow, but the rest of the day was likewise divine, including a visit to the top of the Mole Antonelliani (a huge tower you line up for the single lift   to a brilliant panorama of the city...much higher than the castle Madama from the day before). We finished the day dropping into a couple of amazing jazz jams (gypsy jazz in the Mole Antonelliani courtyard and African rhythms in the Piazza Vittoria Veneta) and a walk along the river Po, before returning to a meal made in the apartment (agnotelli and Popettes - tasty little meatballs). Tomorrow it is on to Milano (Milan) for a day before we head to Tuscany. Buona notte, amicos.